Friday 1 July 2011

London Heathrow to Eldoret Kenya


 Time to leave. Full of emotions - nerves, fear, excitement. Boarding flight KQ0101...Nairobi here I come..what adventures await me?!

The last few weeks have been full of trepidation, analyzing everything that is important to me and worrying that I might lose something special. Thinking about all the things that could and might go wrong, thinking about the things and people I will miss in my life. Of course it’s difficult to lose something that special in such a short time but still I had many sleepless nights with consideration of unlikely events.

I know this is a great opportunity, something that I’ll be able to talk about at parties and tell others about, but right now adventure seems secondary in my life, to what I know and love. Just trying to calm myself with reassuring words from friends and colleagues; ”You’ve done it before, you’ve been to India”; “Remember, it’s only for 6 months, in the grand scheme of things it’s not really that long”. I’m still feeling scared of the unknown. I rushed through my goodbyes, because I hate this part, and always end up in tears, and set off to Kenya.

The following day (Saturday 2nd July) I arrived on time in Nairobi for the transfer, unfortunately bags don’t seem to have been so timely. Late arrival of luggage at Nairobi airport, and a flight to Eldoret leaving in erm....30mins! Let’s hope  luggage is late and not lost, or sat on tarmac at Heathrow.
What to do?! Do I take this flight to Eldoret, and risk leaving my baggage behind in Nairobi, or just miss this flight, and hang around Nairobi for around 12hrs until the next flight to Eldoret? How do I know that my baggage hasn't gone direct to Eldoret...crikes. They did say at Heathrow they'd put an Eldoret label on my luggage, but Nairobi airport officials assured me I'd have to collect my bags here. Spoke to the lost luggage office, and started filling in a form, when one of the airport attendants shouts out “Here's your rucksack”. I turned to find my rucksack sitting in the middle of the bagging area...phew. Where's my case though?! An attendant disappears with my luggage label...20mins until take off. Panic setting in now. He reappears, with the alleged case..hoorah! No time for tipping I'm afraid, I raced off at top speed to the domestic airport. With 10mins before the flight was due to leave.
There was a lot of tutting at the check-in desk (especially since my 2 bags were over the weight limit...oops!) No time to charge me though, an attendant came to carry my bags onto the plane. Someone else there kept insisting that I tip him...alright, point taken. Not having done any research about the exchange rates before coming out, I had no idea what the value of the money was, and no idea how much is the norm for tips. I gave him a 100 KS note (which is worth about 70p). Onto the plane...sweating, panting...not a pretty sight, only to find that my seat number of 14E didn't exist. There was a spare seat anyhow, which I fell into, and slept practically the whole 45minute journey there. Charles (the taxi driver) met me at Eldoret airport. I was telling him about my experiences, and he found it hilarious and told me my tip was worthless to the airport attendant. I then felt guilty, and tipped him 400 KS. Again, not realising that you don't need to tip taxi drivers here...ergh...I'm learning. This won't be the first time a Mzungu (white person) gets ripped off.
I’m here finally, 15 hours since I left home, wonder what lies ahead, what lies are ahead and where my head will lie?

The following morning, Sunday 3rd July, Chepkemoi, one of the ladies working at the Grand Prix hotel, was very friendly, showed me the local grocery store and the swimming pool. I later found out why. She sent me a text message saying “God has answered my prayers. I hope you will make my dream come true to settle in the UK. God bless you”. I didn’t need God’s blessing so soon, I just needed my shopping and a swim. 

Later on in the day, I met her husband. During this time, the landlord perhaps conveniently called him, saying he was evicting him from their house unless he paid their rent from the previous 6months (30,000 KS = approx £200). They have 2 small children. The whole time, I'm feeling uncomfortable, not knowing quite what to do, or say. Particularly so when Chepkemoi asks if there's any way I can give them the money. In retrospect I shouldn’t have felt so bad but immediately I did, but there was just no way, I can’t save the world after all.

She then asked if there was anyone back home who I could ask...so I explained politely, that even for a Mzungu, 30,000 KS was a lot of money – I couldn't think of anyone that I could ask and reprimanded myself later for even thinking that I might! I asked (perhaps naively) whether the government could help them. They laughed at me, and said there was no way. I’d forgotten for a moment where I was, and that things such as social care and benefits aren’t the same as back home

After only my second day of being here, was this going to become a regular occurrence? I’d have to be a little more careful and seek advice of how to deal with the inevitable repetitions of these events. These are the potential everyday struggles and hardships that some people are facing here, and no doubt many face much worse.  How much is real and how much is opportunistic claimed hardship/tragedy is impossible to determine but it’s a question one must always bear in mind if one is to go shopping or have the odd swim.

I don't know how the story ends as that was my last night at that hotel.  I’d like to think all was OK and my 200 quid would only have improved life rather than save it.  One thing perhaps I need to think about is the value of money and how I use it.

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