Mombasa!

Feeling much better about work this week, as I met with the professor, and discussed how I could be making a sustainable difference. He's asked me to run weekly statistical training sessions to the Global Network. I asked him whether he thought it would be valuable if I ran a sample size workshop for the students too, as that seems to be one of the most common problems that the students have been asking me about. He seemed happy with this idea. He suggested that I start the statistical training sessions when he is back from Mombasa, the week of the 22^nd August, and he will attend the first one.

We're heading to Mombasa this weekend for Mira's birthday! Took the Matatu (around a 7hr journey) to Nairobi. There was a lot of traffic just outside the town centre. Nairobi was busy, hot and chaotic, it had a Delhi feel about it. Finally managed to meet up with Mike and Holly (they'd gone down the day before to get our train tickets.) They'd also managed to get to the animal orphanage and hold a baby cheetah – yes, I have turned into a little green eyed monster! The train station was full of wazungu (plural of mzungu!). The train was like an ancient steam train.

On the way to Mombasa

Arriving at Nairobi Station

The second class ticket was 2600 KS (approx=£18 one way), which included dinner. We had our own cabin sleeping 4 people, so I thought the ticket was a good price (and cheaper than what was quoted in the Lonely Planet!). We missed our dinner sitting at 8.45pm, and ended up eating later, which consisted of watery soup, a vegetable stew and rice, followed by desert of fruit and tea, not exactly gourmet, but was edible! We borrowed some cutlery from the kitchens to eat Mira's birthday cake...I really wish I hadn't looked in now, as there were cockroaches crawling everywhere. I am now becoming a connoisseur of non-western toilets! At least I thought I was, until Mira questioned the damp on my trousers after returning from one...oops, must've been the overflowing sink basin after washing my hands I remarked sheepishly!The views of the night sky were remarkable from the train window. I've never seen the milky way before, and a starry sky quite like it. The north star was directly in front of us, since we are so near the equator. I tried to figure out the constellations, but the sky was just lit up with so many stars, it was impossible to distinguish between them.

After a breakfast of fruit followed by 2 fried eggs, inedible sausage (see pic!) and baked beans(!!) Imagine - this is Africa! We stood by the window watching the villages as we rode by, and waving to the children who stood by the track shouting “Muzungu” at the top of their voices! Arrived about 10.30am, and ended up in the New Daba City hotel. Basic, but clean and cheap. We made the mistake of travelling during Ramadan, so many of the restaurants and cafes were closed for the month, we finally stumbled upon an open one, and ate lunch. Walked around the Old Town, and went to Fort Jesus, which was built by the Portuguese in 1593. Was used as a jail at one point by the British. We walked along Moi Avenue, saw the elephant tusks, and went to the Mwember Tayari Road market. Sellers swarmed as soon as you expressed an interest in something, and tried to convince you to buy...it was actually a bit of an effort explaining each time you were just looking, and not interested in buying. In the evening, we ate out at Singh's restaurant, then ended up in Casablanca, a club. I'm not sure if this is the forum to tell you about that night, but to give you an idea, myself, Mira and Holly were asked whether we were working! We left before the evening got any weirder!

The Elephant Tasks on Moi Ave

On Sunday, we stopped off at an open cafe for a breakfast of fresh chapatis (much better than the frozen ones I buy from the supermarket!) I've got to learn how to make these before I return home – they are amazing!! Rode by tuk-tuk down to Likoni ferry, which was free, and travelled over with the locals. The port was busy with a big market there selling fresh fish and vegetables. 

A tuk-tuk drove us out to Tiwi beach, it was a bumpy ride, and we all came out with a few bruises. We were stopped by the police, and when the driver got back in, he explained the cop wanted money. We gave him a generous tip when he left us at Twiga lodge, feeling bad that the cop had fined him. This is the harsh reality apparently. Even if the tuk-tuk drivers haven't done anything wrong, the cops will interrogate them, until they find something wrong with the their vehicle and charge them. It's so unfair. I'm glad i'm not driving here, as for one, I wouldn't know how to deal with the bribes, and also I read recently in the paper that there is no driver training syllabus, and to pass your test here you do not need to know anything at all. The author explained that if you want your child to drive properly the only sure way is to have them taught and tested somewhere else! So I don't think driving is an option! For those of you back home that have driven with me, you're probably thinking that I'd fit in quite well here :)  Tiwi beach was beautiful – white sand, clear blue water.

Paddling in the Indian Ocean

Mira, Mike and Holly

Tiwi Beach

We paddled in the Indian Ocean, which was warm. It clouded over just once, and we found shelter in Twiga lodge, and had a few beers and food. Caught the overnight train at 7pm back to Nairobi. Again saw the milky way, and an amazing night sky full of stars. Became acquainted with a couple of guys from the UK, and Maurice from Nairobi, and stayed up chatting until late.