Will the rainy season ever end?

It had rained all through the night, and was still raining when I woke up this morning. I'm wondering if the rainy season will ever end, and also how it's going to affect the turnout at training this morning. I was thinking about the street seller’s, and open air mechanics and how the weather would mean a day’s loss in their wages. Also, my colleagues were explaining they need a dry September for the maize, as it needs to dry out. The rainy season started late this year, and so is happening later on in the year. I hope it's going to dry out soon, given the impact on planting and crop growth.

I was all set up to start training at 8am, but no one had arrived (apart from the data manager, who had arrived early to help me set up my laptop!) At 8.15, I was kicked out, as the room was needed by someone else for training. I managed to get set up in training room 3, but no luck finding an overhead projector. I ran the workshop with everyone huddled around my laptop, which wasn't ideal, but we managed. I ran a couple of break out groups. I think the session went ok, but we don't seem to be getting through much in each of the sessions, as the doctors have tight schedules, and need to get away after the hour.

I continued working on the pre- and post- training questionnaires and converting them into SAS datasets. There is mention of a holiday here because of Eid. I think it will fall either on Wednesday or Thursday. No one is really sure at the moment, but I'm learning to be flexible here. Besides, it makes up for us missing out on the Bank holiday back home today :)

Mauled by a Mosquito!

Managed out to the supermarket this morning- I ought to get one of these SMART cards that they keep talking about. I could be saving myself some points! As I was walking up to the supermaket, I saw the most incredible balancing act, and managed to get a photo:

In the afternoon I headed out to the Sally Test Paediatric centre. Charlotte* was back to her usual self, and it was really nice to have her back :) I helped out again with the babies, as they were short of helpers. The older children were watching Hansel and Gretel. Then when it came to an end, we had some time before closing and taking the children back to the wards. The teacher was preoccupied with getting the babies fed, and changing their nappies, and asked whether I could occupy the older children....eek, I grabbed one of the story books and read them a book on respect, and taking care of each other. Another teaching assistant was able to translate into Swahili. The director, supervisor and manager were over for a weeks’ training. After taking the kids down to the ward, I left and prepared for my training session tomorrow morning. I sent out a reminder text to all my colleagues. I found some more evidence of my furry friend in my bedroom and I think a mosquito must've gotten caught under my mosquito net, as I've noticed a line of bites all the way up my arm, on my back, and shoulders which have started to itch like crazy :(

*I’ve changed the names in this posting

A Kenyan Wedding

The day before the wedding, on the Friday, I'd been to the dressmakers so she could re-fit my Kitenge. It was done within a day. If this was the UK, you'd be requested to come back in a week say, and have additional charges I'm sure. Before going into town, I asked everyone in the office if anyone needed anything. The office boy looked shyly at me, but didn't reply, so I said if they thought of anything, they could just text me. Whilst I was out, I received a text from him saying; "Whatever present you will chose to bring, I will appreciate, thank you Amy". Ergh...I wasn't offering to bring a present, I'd only asked if people needed anything in town and they would pay for it?!  Communication seemed to be letting me down here. I'm learning though :)

Fitting the head dress at the dressmakers

At the dressmakers

I was due to meet Betsy in town at 8am, but unfortunately she got held up due to the muddy roads since she was driving in. I put on my Kitenge top and skirt. The African look obviously worked, since a lady stopped me in the street, and started talking to me in Swahili. I only understood the odd word she said, but it turned out that her daughter was a house girl, and she was looking for work for her. I had to explain that I was here only temporarily.

I went into 'Motions', the hair dressers, and there was only one other girl there who was getting her hair styled. The two hairdressers seemed nervous, and asked what I wanted done. I wasn't entirely sure myself, and was looking for inspiration from them really! They suggested curling my hair, so lets see what happens!  They were keen to take photos of me – perhaps this was the first mzungu that had attended their salon? They put all sorts of treatments in my hair – I think it was more to tame it, as they weren't used to working with such fine, flyaway hair. They couldn't get the rollers in place, as my hair wouldn't behave, but finally, with more coconut oil, we were away.

I sat under these dryers for 30mins, and nearly frazzled! It turned out that curling was quite a popular, as many women were coming in for it. The salon really filled up. When the curlers came out, all I could think was how greasy my hair looked. It was like someone had poured a bottle of olive oil over my head. Hmm- I wasn't all that convinced. It cost me 200KS (=approx £1.50). I just couldn't believe how cheap this was, thinking about what I pay in the UK! Whist I was there, a girl was getting her eyebrows done. They took a metal razor blade (like the ones used in the old razors), and shaved her eyebrows off.  I don't think I'll be getting that done!

The wedding was a beautiful ceremony. It was held at the Noble hotel in Eldoret, which is only along the road from where I live. There were around 1000 guests (including my GSK PULSE colleagues from Kisumu, Kathy and Gabi). There weren't enough chairs for everyone to sit, and people were stood around the sides of the hall. There were a few traditions which were different to back home. The priest invited the bride and groom to kneel, and said it was traditional for the family to spit on them, however, instead of spitting on them, he invited them to touch the couple as a blessing. 

Bride and Groom

There was some serious Africa  dancing!

We went for a huge buffet meal afterwards (I tried a different type of ugali, which was brown rather than white) which was lets say…different, and there was an African band, with singers, and a comedy sketch. After the pictures of the bride and groom had been taken, the bride was led in by all the women present, doing African dancing! The two families all did speeches, including aunts, uncles, cousins, mothers, fathers, grandfathers, and grandmothers, so you can imagine they went on for some time. It became clear that the wedding was not just about the bride and groom, but about the joining of two families. After the cutting of the cake, there was some more African dancing, and then it was time to clear away and leave. I was surprised that all the guests weren't invited to an evening reception like at home. It seemed that the after party was only for close friends and family. The bride and groom received so many gifts. As you left your gift for them, you had to sign your name in a book, and leave your phone number. I'm not sure if they'll even know who I am, but I put my name down anyhow. The grooms parents own the dressmakers, and repair shop in town, and my colleague, is good friends with them (They were able to help Mira out when the straps on her (new!) rucksack from Nairobi disintegrated!) The after party seemed to be for close friends and family only.. It was nice to meet Kathy and Gabi and exchange experiences so far, and I really enjoyed the African dancing :)

Plate topped full of East African food...yum!
The brown stuff on my plate is ugali!

Myself, Fredy, and his childminder



Before the celebrations begin



A surprise trip to Iten and Kerio Valley!

Today was a great day! Shona and John (from GSK House) were over, with Stanley, Liz and Martin from GSK Nairobi. They work in consumer healthcare, and had come over to look round AMPATH, and then wanted to look around the high altitude training camps, with the aim of finding new promotional material for Luzcozade sport. I wasn't even aware that they were coming, it was just when Evelyn asked whether I wanted to be introduced. We looked around the laboratories together, and then I invited myself along on their trip to Iten (where the High Altitude Training camp is.) I just found myself talking non-stop in the car journey there (just 30mins from Eldoret). I explained I'm not normally like this, but I think I'm missing company, now Mira and Mike have left!

There was a 25m swimming pool, and an amazing gym. 

Peter (Lornah Kiplagat's coach) showed us around. Apparently, this is where athletes from across the globe come to train, and at around 6.15am, some 900 athletes travel to run round that track! There is a gym there, which is one of the best equipped gyms I've ever seen. We saw round the physio therapy rooms too. Then we met Lornah herself (just before she went off on a 35km run), she just missed the qualifying time to run in the Olympics (which is set at sub 2:27:24 hr), however, did receive an invitation from the organisers of the Amsterdam 2011 marathon to run and qualify in October. We all managed to get a picture with her. 





Me and Lornah

 After eating a runners lunch (light lunch of mushroom soup, a roll and fruit salad), the rain came on. We drove up to see the track itself, which didn't look that impressive at all, was just like a mud track, however, as Peter says, people travel miles to train on this track, so despite its appearance, it gives results. After leaving Iten, we drove up to Kerio Valley. We visited Kerio view resort and had amazing views over the rift Valley. After a juisi ya mananasi (pineapple juice), sadly it was time to go home. It was such a great day out, I was sad to to leave my new friends. Shona has roped me into organising a team from Eldoret to do “Run for Good”. She's aiming to raise over £500,000, building on a successful 2010 AMREF run, raising money for your own charity, or one of GSK's 8 charities. I'll see if I can advertise it at my next training session. 

The setting sun from my garden

View of Kerio Valley

Here I am attempting to use one of the machines

Hakuna Matata!

We had a Global Network meeting to discuss the EmONC project, the agenda for the next investigators meeting was discussed, and data issues were also given consideration. After the meeting, I began importing the pre-and post questionnaires into SAS datasets. I met with the Professor to discuss the variables that he was most interested in analysing. When I asked when the work needed to be completed by, I said afterwards, that's probably a stupid question to ask, as I imagine the answer is as soon as possible. He said to the contrary. He said please take your time, and explore the data, and understand the data as much as you can. Wow – I like this, so different to the way of working that I'm used to, everything is usually needed 5mins ago! I could get to like this...alot!

At a meeting with my Global Network Colleagues

I went along to the IU house (a hostel where students from Indiana university stay) to see if the office could tell me about any trips being organised, in the hope that I might be able to make some friends. Unfortunately, the office explained that they no longer get involved with trips, and the students organise them now. Hmmm, left the office feeling a bit down, as there would be no way I could just turn up, not knowing anyone. I bumped into my Swahili teacher, and he was able to do an earlier than scheduled lesson. On my return home, I bumped into Sam (one of Mira's friends)..how lucky! She leaves tomorrow, and was just going to the IU house to return a modem. I went along with her, and she introduced me to the current students, and invited me back to make chapati's later.  

After watching Rhythm city (an African soap opera! I'm totally hooked!) I walked back to the IU house. I had to do the walk in the dark with my head torch. Although it's a short walk, I don't feel all that safe as there are no pavements, just a mud track with the road on the right, and bushes on the left. The cooks from the IU house were there, making chapatis, but I think I might have to stick to the frozen ones for now, as I've no idea of the quantities, they just seemed to throw the flour in, and mix in the water, oil and salt. Anyhow, there is a trip on the 3^rd September to Lake Baringo, which I'd really like to go on, so I've signed up for that. We played cards, then I thought I'd better head back, as I had to do the walk back on my own again. The security guard even asked about my safety (they all have guns here, which is also a bit disconcerting.) Anyhow, I made it safely back. I think next time, I'll take a taxi down (even though it's such a short distance), as I didn’t feel safe, and I know I'm breaking all the rules in the PULSE handbook!

First training session

The training started out a bit of a disaster. Some of the team had been in Mombasa last week, and all the equipment had gone with them, so I had no overhead projector and no white board. Luckily, we were able to use another training room, which had a built in overhead projector. The training went well (I think) despite not starting until 9.30am due to technical hitches, but that's when most people arrived anyhow. Also, I wasn't able to cover a great deal of material in just 1hr. It was a small group, which was good as we had a lot of interaction, and group involvement. Some of the feedback I got was that I should open it out to the students. I later discussed this with the professor, but he didn't think it was a good idea, since a small group would be better for interaction, and group discussion. I'll see how the sessions progress. I'd still like to do a sample size workshop for the students.

 

Washing babies!

This morning at the Sally Test Paediatric centre, I helped wash the babies (my first experience ever, which the girls all found amusing!), since Rebecca was by herself. Charlotte* was sick this morning. It made me so sad to see her just sleeping all the time. When Rebecca washed her, she sleepily opened her eyes, and had that cute smile on her face, but it didn't last for long, as she fell straight back to sleep again. The doctor had been to see her and prescribed medication. They put cooking oil on the babies after washing them (since this doesn't contain petroleum). I'm not sure exactly why they put oil on them? A 13yr old was there today holding a baby. It later transpired that the baby was her own! She was there to learn how to take care of it herself. The baby was so tiny.  I just felt that she was so young to take on something like this, I mean at 13, you're still a child yourself. I don't know the circumstances, but I guess it's not uncommon for this to happen here. The nursery nurses were all talking Swahili, and I couldn't understand what they were saying, so felt a bit excluded from the conversation. I'm hoping if I keep going with my Swahili, I'll be able to join in soon :) It was such a nice afternoon, I sat in the garden, and read, then caught up with friends and family back home on Skype which was nice.

*I’ve changed the names in this posting

A Strange Dream...

According to Janet*, there had been a comedy element to the gathering at the mortuary yesterday. Eighteen children had turned up and 3 wives. Each of the different wives didn't know about each other! The third wife was wailing, not just because she was grieving, but because she thought she'd get all his possessions. It looks like they will go to the first wife though. Since he was a road traffic officer, it seems that he’d been busy, and had different children coming from all the different stations that he’d been based!  

Colleta took me out at lunchtime to the dressmakers in town, since Betsy has invited me to her friend's wedding next weekend. Sometimes, I feel a million miles from home, but today, home felt closer than it had ever done in the past 2 months I've been here. 

I found some material for a kitenge (an African skirt and top). In order to choose the design of the kitenge, I was shown a book of big, busty curvy African women, modelling dresses, skirts and tops. This was very different to the size 0 models back home. I'm to go back next Thursday for a fitting. I can't believe how quickly she can make it for me. This afternoon I read through ICH E9 in preparation for the training on Monday.

I had a strange dream tonight. I was at Nairobi airport on my way back to the UK, half way through my assignment, but the passport officials said there was a problem with my passport. He kept it aside along with a bunch of other passports. He called me and the other travellers over and said we needed to go to another terminal, and to follow him. I was sure he hadn't picked up my passport, but he assured me he had. After we reached the terminal lounge, he told me he didn't have my passport, and I'd need to go back to find it. I got back to the original location, and spent ages searching for it, but couldn't find it, and started to panic. I re-traced my footsteps to find the official, but completely lost everybody. I didn't even have the official’s name. I was asking at the bar how I get to this terminal, but people either didn't know, or didn't speak English. I was in a state of panic. I managed to wake myself out of the dream, and the first thing I did was check my passport :)

*The names have been changed in this posting

Learning about the African culture

Janet* was at the mortuary today, as her relative (a traffic officer) got killed in a road traffic accident. I later learned that road traffic accidents occur quite frequently here. I had a chat with Judy about the African culture. I said it was interesting to me that in the Kenyan culture, people generally marry early, and have children at a younger age compared to the UK. Judy explained there is pressure from the parents once you're married to start a family, also there is extra pressure to have a boy. She explained that men openly cheat on their wives, and the wives just accept it because divorce is frowned upon. Men have children outside wedlock, and then their wives have to look after them, and treat them as their own. She also explained that if the wife is barren, there is a famous Kenyan expression to say that the wife “...sits on her husband.” In otherwords, she isn't good for anything. I found this quite shocking and sad too. I'm wondering whether there is an expression if the husband is barren? I'm learning a lot here about how the family is viewed in Kenyan culture. I spent the afternoon working on my slides for Monday. We had a power cut tonight at 11pm. I felt a bit scared, but I can honestly say two of the most used things that I have brought over here with me are a head torch (thanks bro!) and a rain jacket! I only regret not bringing wellies!

*The names have been changed in this posting

First trip to the field

Went out with Judy to the field (our trip on Monday had to be cancelled, since the driver was needed for another field trip). I'm getting used to a change in plan at the last minute. First stop was Mumias (about a 2.5hr drive from Eldoret), which is one of the clusters for the EmONC (Emergency Obstetric Neonatal Care) program which aims to reduce the preventable causes of maternal, fetal and early neonatal mortality and morbidity and increase existing resources for their prevention in the community.

Judy was visiting the site to check in with the investigator to help with any problems in completing the questionnaires. Women were being recruited into the study at greater than 20weeks gestation. The questionnaires record information about the mothers current pregnancy and health, and any previous pregnancies. There was a complication with a 17yr old girl, whose due date was 1^st July 2011, however, when the investigator visited her at the end of July, she was still pregnant. She explained that she'd lost the baby January time, and had conceived straight after. The investigator wasn't sure about the truth in this, however, Judy explained that in the period just post miscarrying, you are most fertile, so it was feasible. The site wasn't sure whether to start a new subject number for this girl and close the other form, or the change the dates on the other form. Judy explained before doing anything, we needed to get the dates confirmed to ensure that she is >20weeks with the new child. I had the opportunity to see round the hospital. It was sad as whilst I was there, a small baby was brought in, and being treated for severe burns. The hospital staff explained the most common condition was malaria. I saw the male and female wards, which were small, and cramped with drips everywhere. I was taken to the delivery rooms, which were again overcrowded with mothers. There was a family planning clinic where the community health worker was giving a prep talk to the mothers/pregnant women, which I was impressed by. 

Family planning at Mumias

I was taken to the labs, which were basic, and then on to see the queue of mothers outside waiting to have their babies weighed.

 

Babies being weighted at Mumias



We drove to Makunga, another site. There were no problems here. I was again given a tour around the hospital. Ros, the head nurse was treating a distressed baby for malaria whilst I was there. It was being given a quinine infusion. Again, the hospital was basic, overcrowded, and no privacy for the patients. I felt awkward being taken into the lab, where they were drawing blood from patients. I imagined how I'd feel if I was the patient, and having people gaping at me, like I was a museum exhibit. I wouldn't like it, however, the investigator was very keen to show me around.



 

Myself and the head nurse, Ros at Makunga



On the drive back, we passed through Kakamega forest. I hope I get a chance to come back. I was snapping away at all the baboons, although a little anxious one might jump in when I wound the window to take the photo!

Baboon with sugar cane

Judy explained on the drive home that sepsis is a common condition in newborns. It results mainly from poor hygiene. Apparently in the villages, they believe that putting cow dung or soil on the cut umbilical cord is a good healing agent. Sadly, this results in infection, and finally death. She mentioned that the government is trying to discourage TBAs (Traditional Birth Attendants) because it would rather mothers go into the hospital, than give birth at home. Also, TBAs don't always have professional training.

 

I had a call with Manu from GSK tonight at 5pm. I felt a little awkward talking freely and honestly as two of my colleagues were in the room with me, however, it's difficult to find a free room most of the time. When she asked me what experiences I would bring back to GSK with me, I struggled to answer this question. The work I am doing at the moment (although statistics), is completely different to the work I do back at home. Perhaps I need to start thinking outside the box, in terms of the environment, rather than the work itself. She'd met with Andrew Witty, just in the previous week to our call, who had said that he hoped that volunteers would return to GSK reinvigorated, revitalised, thinking creatively and outside the box. I'd like to think that this will be how I'm be feeling in 6months time when I return to GSK. I had to leave the office at 5.40pm to get to my Swahili lesson tonight. Heard from Mike today – he didn't make it to the summit of Mt Kenya, he got altitude sickness at 4 300m and had to descend :( I'm having second thoughts about attempting the climb myself now!

Buda-buda (Motorbike)

Photos of the drive through the villages coming back from Mumias

Picture of the villages on the drive back from Mumias





Snow White and a Power Cut

Went to the Sally Test Paediatric centre. Charlotte* seemed irritable this morning. She was playing with a wooden truck piled high with bricks, but she kept tripping as she pulled it. I went to help her, but she bit me :( Not hard, I think it was just out of frustration...that'll teach me a lesson for interfering! I read Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, whilst the teacher translated. We then had a song and dance session, followed by playing frisbee and football outside. It was great seeing the kids enjoying themselves. Wheeled Ben* down in his wheelchair, and he was so grateful for the story. He kept saying “Asante Sana”. So I replied “Karibu (=you're welcome)” 

It's lunchtime at Sally Test

It's lunchtime at Sally Test

Feeling like Old Mother Hubbard today, as I literally have no food at home (apart from Stella's Irish scones!) Stella's the cake lady, that comes around every day selling cakes at work for the tea break. If there's one thing that I'd like to take back to the UK with me, are the tea breaks, and the community spirit in the office. We all stop at around 10am for a break and some cake. It's so sociable, and makes the atmosphere more relaxed. When I think about how I work at in the UK, and sometimes I might work a whole day through and not talk to anybody. Since it's been raining all afternoon, I will remain Old Mother Hubbard, as haven't managed out to the shops.

We had a power cut all day on the Sunday, so had a cold shower. On the plus side, I managed to the supermarket. Had the funniest (or not!) taxi ride back. There were no taxi's so the supermarket assistant suggested I consider taking the Nakumatts provided taxi service. I wasn't really sure what he meant, but if it meant getting transport home, then I was fine with it, as it seemed I might have a bit of a wait for the next taxi. He took me to a car, piled full of gas cylinders on the back seat. My shopping was piled on top of these. 

I  had an interesting discussion with the driver about the riots back home. He said it was like the rioting they had in Kenya post election in 2007. He said (almost with pride), “it's not just the developing world where riots take place!”. It was on the tip of my tongue to say that the riots in Kenya were on a much larger scale, and the death toll was around 1000 rather than 5 in London, but I thought it might cause uneasiness, so I kept quiet. Plus, I was already feeling uneasy, as the car seemed like it was about to fall apart when we went over speed bumps and I thought the door might fall off it was rattling so hard! 

To get to my house, you take a left off a dirt track road, onto another (even bumpier) dirt track road so was terrified driving along here that the car was going to fall apart! I said probably best if he drop me at the end of my road, and I could walk, and he did just that. I was hoping he'd help me with my shopping, but instead just piled all the bags at the end of the dirt track. As I carried the bags to my house, I came back, and a herd of cows were sniffing around my shopping. So not only did my shopping have gas all over it, it now had cow snot on it!  

I bought a paper and there was also an article drawing parallels between UK riots and Kenya's post-poll chaos. In Jan 2008, in Nairobi, Kisumu, Mombasa, Eldoret, Naivasha, Mumias and other urban areas around, shops were looted and burnt. Feel a bit worried about rioting back home. I'm keeping in close touch with friends and family, and they've told me that shops have been burnt down in my area. It's shocking and sad..I'm thinking of everyone back home.

Power still hasn't returned. I did some work, until the battery died on my laptop. I tried to read in the dark with my flashlight, but it was attracting all the mosquitoes, so lit a couple of candles. Power finally returned at around 8pm. I won't get a wash done now, as won't be able to get anything dry...hmm. These are some of the challenges I'm facing. I shouldn't moan though, I'm lucky to have a washing machine. Before arriving in Kenya, a Kenyan friend had advised, that I might have to hand wash my clothes! 
So as they say here "Tuonane hivi karibuni! = See you soon"

*I’ve changed the names in this posting 

Some feedback

One of the students (working on the malaria problem), came back to me wondering whether we could look at a weighted average of historical data, or somehow pool the percentages across the different studies to calculate the historical proportions. Sounded like a sensible request to me. I suggested he should mention in his sample size section the assumptions behind the calculations, and add the caveat that these proportions are from different studies, using different populations, and different study designs. I've spent the rest of the week building and adapting the introduction to medical statistics and research workshop to roll out on the 22^nd August.

  
I got some email feedback from a couple of the students. The student who i'd been working on the time to event analysis, had emailed to say;

“Hi there, just to say `asante` for your help in statistics & sample size estimations. I`ve completed and handed in my proposal for approval. God bless you and good evening”. I'm not sure I made a sustainable difference, but hopefully I've given her some background to survival analysis, which will help her when she comes to do her final analysis. Also, the student who I'd been working on logistic regression with had emailed to say “Sorry for the any inconveniences caused for probably too many questions but I think I am understanding alot of sample size determination which is key to my defending my thesis.” This was great feedback, because  if he had now a better understanding of sample size calculations, it would mean that he could carry that work on in the future. My focus next week will be to concentrate on the training presentations for the Global Network. 
 
I'm sad that this week is my house mates last week though. Mike left on Wednesday to climb Mount Kenya, and Mira left tonight. I got a bit teary when it came for her to go, not just because she was leaving, but also because I guess I was imagining how lonely the house will get. My landlady has no other house mates lined up, so I'm thinking about going down to the IU (Indiana University) house, to see if there are any planned trips, and to get to know the students living there. They all come from Indiana University, or various other American Universities on the East coast.
 
We had really bad storms tonight, and the landlady's children invited themselves over to my place, which I found a little disconcerting. Apparently the power had gone off at theirs, however, I hadn't been affected, so they turned up at mine.  I chatted to them for a bit, but it soon became apparent, they wanted to be left on their own to chat. They stayed till about 10.30pm. This was little surprising to me, being Scottish, and being too shy to even get to know my neighbours back in the UK, this was a new experience for me! Is this part of their culture, or was it just because they thought I might be feeling lonely after Mike and Mira leaving?  I felt perhaps I was being ungrateful, because maybe they thought they were doing me a favour by coming over, to stop me from being lonely.

Mombasa!

Feeling much better about work this week, as I met with the professor, and discussed how I could be making a sustainable difference. He's asked me to run weekly statistical training sessions to the Global Network. I asked him whether he thought it would be valuable if I ran a sample size workshop for the students too, as that seems to be one of the most common problems that the students have been asking me about. He seemed happy with this idea. He suggested that I start the statistical training sessions when he is back from Mombasa, the week of the 22^nd August, and he will attend the first one.

We're heading to Mombasa this weekend for Mira's birthday! Took the Matatu (around a 7hr journey) to Nairobi. There was a lot of traffic just outside the town centre. Nairobi was busy, hot and chaotic, it had a Delhi feel about it. Finally managed to meet up with Mike and Holly (they'd gone down the day before to get our train tickets.) They'd also managed to get to the animal orphanage and hold a baby cheetah – yes, I have turned into a little green eyed monster! The train station was full of wazungu (plural of mzungu!). The train was like an ancient steam train.

On the way to Mombasa

Arriving at Nairobi Station

The second class ticket was 2600 KS (approx=£18 one way), which included dinner. We had our own cabin sleeping 4 people, so I thought the ticket was a good price (and cheaper than what was quoted in the Lonely Planet!). We missed our dinner sitting at 8.45pm, and ended up eating later, which consisted of watery soup, a vegetable stew and rice, followed by desert of fruit and tea, not exactly gourmet, but was edible! We borrowed some cutlery from the kitchens to eat Mira's birthday cake...I really wish I hadn't looked in now, as there were cockroaches crawling everywhere. I am now becoming a connoisseur of non-western toilets! At least I thought I was, until Mira questioned the damp on my trousers after returning from one...oops, must've been the overflowing sink basin after washing my hands I remarked sheepishly!The views of the night sky were remarkable from the train window. I've never seen the milky way before, and a starry sky quite like it. The north star was directly in front of us, since we are so near the equator. I tried to figure out the constellations, but the sky was just lit up with so many stars, it was impossible to distinguish between them.

After a breakfast of fruit followed by 2 fried eggs, inedible sausage (see pic!) and baked beans(!!) Imagine - this is Africa! We stood by the window watching the villages as we rode by, and waving to the children who stood by the track shouting “Muzungu” at the top of their voices! Arrived about 10.30am, and ended up in the New Daba City hotel. Basic, but clean and cheap. We made the mistake of travelling during Ramadan, so many of the restaurants and cafes were closed for the month, we finally stumbled upon an open one, and ate lunch. Walked around the Old Town, and went to Fort Jesus, which was built by the Portuguese in 1593. Was used as a jail at one point by the British. We walked along Moi Avenue, saw the elephant tusks, and went to the Mwember Tayari Road market. Sellers swarmed as soon as you expressed an interest in something, and tried to convince you to buy...it was actually a bit of an effort explaining each time you were just looking, and not interested in buying. In the evening, we ate out at Singh's restaurant, then ended up in Casablanca, a club. I'm not sure if this is the forum to tell you about that night, but to give you an idea, myself, Mira and Holly were asked whether we were working! We left before the evening got any weirder!

The Elephant Tasks on Moi Ave

On Sunday, we stopped off at an open cafe for a breakfast of fresh chapatis (much better than the frozen ones I buy from the supermarket!) I've got to learn how to make these before I return home – they are amazing!! Rode by tuk-tuk down to Likoni ferry, which was free, and travelled over with the locals. The port was busy with a big market there selling fresh fish and vegetables. 

A tuk-tuk drove us out to Tiwi beach, it was a bumpy ride, and we all came out with a few bruises. We were stopped by the police, and when the driver got back in, he explained the cop wanted money. We gave him a generous tip when he left us at Twiga lodge, feeling bad that the cop had fined him. This is the harsh reality apparently. Even if the tuk-tuk drivers haven't done anything wrong, the cops will interrogate them, until they find something wrong with the their vehicle and charge them. It's so unfair. I'm glad i'm not driving here, as for one, I wouldn't know how to deal with the bribes, and also I read recently in the paper that there is no driver training syllabus, and to pass your test here you do not need to know anything at all. The author explained that if you want your child to drive properly the only sure way is to have them taught and tested somewhere else! So I don't think driving is an option! For those of you back home that have driven with me, you're probably thinking that I'd fit in quite well here :)  Tiwi beach was beautiful – white sand, clear blue water.

Paddling in the Indian Ocean

Mira, Mike and Holly

Tiwi Beach

We paddled in the Indian Ocean, which was warm. It clouded over just once, and we found shelter in Twiga lodge, and had a few beers and food. Caught the overnight train at 7pm back to Nairobi. Again saw the milky way, and an amazing night sky full of stars. Became acquainted with a couple of guys from the UK, and Maurice from Nairobi, and stayed up chatting until late.

The Imani Workshop

Wow – can't believe I've done a month here now! Trying to figure out what I'm supposed to be analysing for this Global Network paper on Community Mobilisation in preparation for the meeting later. I mentioned to the team that I thought the early meetings from 7am – 9am were not working, and they have changed the time to 5pm-7pm...hmm – is this later time going to work though. I don't understand why they are being organised for outside working hours? Again, I was the only one to turn up tonight. I texted the chair, who gave his apologies, but said that the meeting should still happen. Hmmm – if it was happening, it was happening with only me attending by the looks of things!

On my lunch break on Wednesday, my colleagues took me to the Imani workshop. They have beautiful jewellery and crafts there. It's all in aid of AMPATH (Academic Model Providing Access to Healthcare). AMPATH cares for more than 100,000 HIV infected adults and children with nearly one half of all patients on anti-retroviral drugs, and enrollment into the program rising by 2,000 patients per month. A robust program to prevent mother to child transmission of HIV has been initiated, and some of the patients work on the crafts and jewellery themselves. I bought some jewellery, and wood carvings. The jewellery is brightly coloured and pretty, and some of it is made from clay, and some of it from paper. It's great because you can design your own bag, and they will stitch it up for you too.
Here are some of the crafts: