An evening living Kenyan culture and a surprise visit

This morning, I got a fright going into the kitchen, as there were two cats fighting in there! I'm such a scaredy cat. I have no idea how they got there?!! I think they were just as scared as me as they ran into Mira’s old bedroom. Thinking about it, it might not be such a bad thing having the cats in the house, they might resolve my furry friend problem! I got a lift from my landlady into work and told her about the cats. She was on the phone immediately to the house-girls to get rid of them as they were strays...oh well, so much for the mouse trap idea.

At the training on Monday, one of the nurses asked if they could have my hand written notes from the classes, so I've spent the day writing them up. I went out for lunch to shop for presents as I’ve been invited round to Evelyn’s tonight, and then spending the day with Judy tomorrow. I’m wondering what I should take with me to say thank you?

My colleague got some exciting news this morning. I’d reviewed an abstract of hers last month, which she'd sent off for presentation at a conference over in Montreal, which had been accepted. The only problem is, she cannot fund herself to go over. She was asking me about sponsorship. I've got no idea how people go about getting sponsorship here? That said, back home either? I emailed GSK to see if they would be able to sponsor her, but unfortunately they only provide funding for organisations, rather than individuals. I’m not sure how I can help her?

My colleagues were discussing salaries in the office, and the poverty in Kenya. I discovered that one of the office girls pays 2000 KS per month (approx. 14 GBP) for her accommodation, (which includes an outside toilet and washing facilities). After she’s paid her rent money, she doesn’t have enough left from her wage to take transport into the university, and has to walk 1.5hrs to and from work each day. How is this fair? Ergh, I know we complain at home, but this really puts things into perspective.

I was invited back to Evelyn's compound tonight. She owns chickens, which were clucking around outside. 

We sat outside and watched the cooks and house-girls cooking on a jiko (a stove heated with charcoal.).

I still find the concept of cooks and house-girls difficult. I remember it was the same when I was in India. It was quite a natural thing to have a cleaner, and someone to iron for you. I felt guilty asking someone else to do it, but I guess at the same time, it creates employment. I also saw how the maize was ground in order to make ugali. We took the maize to a man, who first shakes it in a tray with netting to remove the husks:

  It is then passed through a machine with a huge funnel at the top to grind it down.

Evelyn taught me to make chapatis and ugali. 

 

I can't wait to try this out myself :) I later learnt that her son, Emmanuel, has been bouncing the basketball ever since I left (my present to him), and takes it to bed with him...hmmm, I bet it drives his family up the wall though. I found it funny because Naiomi, Evelyn's daughter asked me if my hair was real??!! I guess because weaves are quite common here (where they sew human hair onto their original hair.)

All the food was amazing. We had sukuma wiki (kale), kunde (a green, leafy vegetable, a bit like spinach), yam (a root vegetable) and obviously chapati's and ugali (the staple Kenyan food).

 

We finished the evening with a blessing. I was feeling a little awkward during this devotion, as it was the first time I'd been to anything like this. The family prayed for me in Kenya. Then Evelyn asked the family to thank God for something during the week. I wasn't sure what was appropriate, but I thanked God for a lovely evening with them, and having the opportunity to meet them all.It was so nice (although a bit embarrassing) when Dotty (their house girl) thanked God for bringing me into their family.

 

Douglas, the taxi driver drove me home, and all the lights were on in my house...oh oh, perhaps there's a power cut at my land ladies house and her kids have come over again uninvited, but no, it turned out I have a new house mate, Grace, from Tanzania! I'm so happy to have some company in the house. She's a student doing a phD in business management. She’s a bit older than me, and has a family back in Tanzania.

The Importance of Titles...

I ran the third session on an introduction to medical statistics, including factorial, and fractional factorial designs, case-control studies, cohort, and cross sectional studies. A couple of my team came up to me after and asked for the slides, they also want my hand written notes (which I've made just for an aid to help me). It's great that they are so enthusiastic about the sessions. In fact, Betsy, explained that in her career as a nurse, no research went on amongst the nursing staff, and when she resumed her nursing role at the general hospital, she wanted to encourage the staff to come to my sessions. This was really positive feedback. At the end of the session, I asked the team what they thought about doing a "Run for Good" over in Eldoret. The response was fantastic. Everyone is so keen. The team think they can round up about 100 participants, including students, and raise money for charity. We thought perhaps we could raise money for Vitamin Angels (which provides the vitamins for the EmONC (Emergency Obstetric and Neonatal Care) project ongoing at the moment, but due to finish soon). This money could help with the distribution of the vitamins to the villages after the project finishes. The charities mission is 

"...to mobilize and deploy private sector resources to advance availability, access and use of micronutrients, especially vitamin A, among at-risk populations in need. Vitamin Angels reduces child mortality worldwide by connecting essential nutrients with infants and children under five. Essential nutrients enable young immune systems to fight infectious diseases, helping children attain good health and the opportunity to lead meaningful and productive lives."

We will need to think about logistics (people tell me here I will need to alert the police, which involves taking a letter from the professor), and also involve the Salvation Army nurses. The UK run is very soon (17^th Sept), so I will need to liaise with Shona (who is the senior brand manager at GSK for Lucozade Sport Lite) to see if we can have more time? This is exciting, but at the same time a little daunting! It seems like the event is going to be bigger than I expected. Everyone is being very supportive though. Allan has even mentioned that he thinks he can get 20 street children or orphaned children from the charitable children's institutions to participate!

Today, the data-manager asked me whether people in the UK consider their titles of great importance (for example Drs, Professors insist of being addressed by their title etc). It turns out that in Kenya, students have been known to fail courses for getting their lecturers title wrong. Also, if you ask a question to a professor, but by accident refer to him as a doctor, he is likely to ignore you. They explained that you're giving the impression of not respecting their knowledge, by addressing them incorrectly. I became aware of this hierarchy when at a meeting with the Professor and the Global Network team. When the tea was served, the professor had his own tea flask, and the Global Network members all had to share one. He also got served separate cakes to us. Also, the data-manager was telling me that people in authority don't like to admit that they don't know, even if it is not their area of expertise. They are happy to take advice from those specialist, but at the end of the day, they have the final decision.

It made me think back to the first telephone conversation I had with the professor, where I addressed him by his first name. Mid-way through the conversation, I was reminded of my time in Bangalore, and how all my colleagues addressed the manager as “Sir”, I also remembered that the Professor signed all his emails as Professor. I asked him if I was addressing him correctly, and he said No, he'd like to be called Professor. I felt a bit stupid after that, but I'm certainly learning here. 

Oh, something that made me smile was the quote from the matatu today "If somebody is talking to you about somebody else, it is likely that they will be talking to somebody else about you"

Lake Baringo

I left with the IU (Indiana University) students for Lake Baringo in a four-wheel drive at 7am this morning. Lake Baringo, after Lake Turkana, is the most northern of the Great Rift Valley Lakes of Kenya, and it is one of the two freshwater lakes in the Rift Valley. I was travelling with a bunch of medical and pharmacy students. I began feeling queasy with the conversations that were going on behind me, as they started talking about a tissue box which had a 16 week old foetus cello-taped inside with it's name on the box, which had been sat in the ward for a week now. Last week they'd experienced a child born as a hermaphrodite, and the parents had to decide whether to bring it up as a girl or a boy. I tried to block my ears after that, as the road was getting increasingly bumpy, and I was worried I might get a bill for a car valet! At one point, I thought we might have to get out and push, as a river had flooded the road. Some boys guided through, I don't think we really needed guiding, I think it was more of an entrepreneurial exercise just so they could make a few bob at the end!
We stopped off at some beautiful viewpoints.

It transpired that we were staying on an island in the middle of the lake! How incredibly exciting. We took a boat over to the Island resort. Apparently, there are crocodiles and hippos in the lake. I think the Flamingos have migrated for the season unfortunately. We're staying in little tents overlooking the lake, it's really idyllic – and, we are pretty much the only people in the resort. After setting ourselves up, and having a feast for lunch, myself and Myna went out on a couple of log canoes. 

We were a little worried when we were handed a couple of hand paddles, and told to go. I was out first, and had some problems with the steering, but got there in the end. Myna followed, but unfortunately, her canoe was broken, and she capsized. I took mine out a little further, but a dark cloud started drifting over, and I thought I'd better paddle in before the weather turned, (or I got eaten by crocs) especially as I didn't feel so stable with the hand paddles!

We met up with the others, and went on a boat trip around the Island. Saw an Eagle, Kingfisher, and my first hippo! 
All I could see were its eyes just surfacing above the water, no crocodiles though. I'm not sure if you can make him out in the photo below:

We landed on a rock, and dismounted the boat, so we could photograph the setting sun. 

We disturbed a few scorpions who were resting under rocks, no serious damage luckily.

We had a Bar-B-Q in the evening, and then finished with the Lion King. Molly had brought her laptop and movie with her..so in Zazu's own words; Oh, my, my, my. Look at the sun. It's time to go!

The following morning, we were up to watch the sunrise, and they brought us tea and biscuits. Some of the group managed to spot a crocodile in the lake. I missed it – typical...I sat, for ages scanning the lake, but it just wasn't happening. I was mesmerised by the rising sun, and continued to sit for ages, reading.

After breakfast, myself and Myra went water-skiing. The others watched from the Platoon. Myra just took off – and only used one ski. She was amazing on the skis, was doing all sorts of tricks like holding the rope between her legs, and waving at us. I, however, was pretty hopeless, having only tried it once before, and retrospectively, it probably wasn't the best lake to learn in with crocodiles and hippos, but I was keen to try it, and after all Myra made it look so easy. It later emerged that she water skis for the university team. I fell in several times, and managed to swallow a lot of the lake – here's hoping it was a clean lake – I guess I will be due a schistosomiasis check up when I get home!

Here I am, attempting to ride the waves on my skis

Feeling a little demoralised after falling in..

 

Anyways – it was good fun, and I'm really glad I tried it.  I was sad when it was time to leave.

The rain just came on as we arrived in Eldoret, so spent the evening preparing for my training session tomorrow morning at 8am. I've discovered that texting everyone the night before increases attendance at the sessions, so I'm going to get in the habit of doing this!

Will the rainy season ever end?

It had rained all through the night, and was still raining when I woke up this morning. I'm wondering if the rainy season will ever end, and also how it's going to affect the turnout at training this morning. I was thinking about the street seller’s, and open air mechanics and how the weather would mean a day’s loss in their wages. Also, my colleagues were explaining they need a dry September for the maize, as it needs to dry out. The rainy season started late this year, and so is happening later on in the year. I hope it's going to dry out soon, given the impact on planting and crop growth.

I was all set up to start training at 8am, but no one had arrived (apart from the data manager, who had arrived early to help me set up my laptop!) At 8.15, I was kicked out, as the room was needed by someone else for training. I managed to get set up in training room 3, but no luck finding an overhead projector. I ran the workshop with everyone huddled around my laptop, which wasn't ideal, but we managed. I ran a couple of break out groups. I think the session went ok, but we don't seem to be getting through much in each of the sessions, as the doctors have tight schedules, and need to get away after the hour.

I continued working on the pre- and post- training questionnaires and converting them into SAS datasets. There is mention of a holiday here because of Eid. I think it will fall either on Wednesday or Thursday. No one is really sure at the moment, but I'm learning to be flexible here. Besides, it makes up for us missing out on the Bank holiday back home today :)

Mauled by a Mosquito!

Managed out to the supermarket this morning- I ought to get one of these SMART cards that they keep talking about. I could be saving myself some points! As I was walking up to the supermaket, I saw the most incredible balancing act, and managed to get a photo:

In the afternoon I headed out to the Sally Test Paediatric centre. Charlotte* was back to her usual self, and it was really nice to have her back :) I helped out again with the babies, as they were short of helpers. The older children were watching Hansel and Gretel. Then when it came to an end, we had some time before closing and taking the children back to the wards. The teacher was preoccupied with getting the babies fed, and changing their nappies, and asked whether I could occupy the older children....eek, I grabbed one of the story books and read them a book on respect, and taking care of each other. Another teaching assistant was able to translate into Swahili. The director, supervisor and manager were over for a weeks’ training. After taking the kids down to the ward, I left and prepared for my training session tomorrow morning. I sent out a reminder text to all my colleagues. I found some more evidence of my furry friend in my bedroom and I think a mosquito must've gotten caught under my mosquito net, as I've noticed a line of bites all the way up my arm, on my back, and shoulders which have started to itch like crazy :(

*I’ve changed the names in this posting

A Kenyan Wedding

The day before the wedding, on the Friday, I'd been to the dressmakers so she could re-fit my Kitenge. It was done within a day. If this was the UK, you'd be requested to come back in a week say, and have additional charges I'm sure. Before going into town, I asked everyone in the office if anyone needed anything. The office boy looked shyly at me, but didn't reply, so I said if they thought of anything, they could just text me. Whilst I was out, I received a text from him saying; "Whatever present you will chose to bring, I will appreciate, thank you Amy". Ergh...I wasn't offering to bring a present, I'd only asked if people needed anything in town and they would pay for it?!  Communication seemed to be letting me down here. I'm learning though :)

Fitting the head dress at the dressmakers

At the dressmakers

I was due to meet Betsy in town at 8am, but unfortunately she got held up due to the muddy roads since she was driving in. I put on my Kitenge top and skirt. The African look obviously worked, since a lady stopped me in the street, and started talking to me in Swahili. I only understood the odd word she said, but it turned out that her daughter was a house girl, and she was looking for work for her. I had to explain that I was here only temporarily.

I went into 'Motions', the hair dressers, and there was only one other girl there who was getting her hair styled. The two hairdressers seemed nervous, and asked what I wanted done. I wasn't entirely sure myself, and was looking for inspiration from them really! They suggested curling my hair, so lets see what happens!  They were keen to take photos of me – perhaps this was the first mzungu that had attended their salon? They put all sorts of treatments in my hair – I think it was more to tame it, as they weren't used to working with such fine, flyaway hair. They couldn't get the rollers in place, as my hair wouldn't behave, but finally, with more coconut oil, we were away.

I sat under these dryers for 30mins, and nearly frazzled! It turned out that curling was quite a popular, as many women were coming in for it. The salon really filled up. When the curlers came out, all I could think was how greasy my hair looked. It was like someone had poured a bottle of olive oil over my head. Hmm- I wasn't all that convinced. It cost me 200KS (=approx £1.50). I just couldn't believe how cheap this was, thinking about what I pay in the UK! Whist I was there, a girl was getting her eyebrows done. They took a metal razor blade (like the ones used in the old razors), and shaved her eyebrows off.  I don't think I'll be getting that done!

The wedding was a beautiful ceremony. It was held at the Noble hotel in Eldoret, which is only along the road from where I live. There were around 1000 guests (including my GSK PULSE colleagues from Kisumu, Kathy and Gabi). There weren't enough chairs for everyone to sit, and people were stood around the sides of the hall. There were a few traditions which were different to back home. The priest invited the bride and groom to kneel, and said it was traditional for the family to spit on them, however, instead of spitting on them, he invited them to touch the couple as a blessing. 

Bride and Groom

There was some serious Africa  dancing!

We went for a huge buffet meal afterwards (I tried a different type of ugali, which was brown rather than white) which was lets say…different, and there was an African band, with singers, and a comedy sketch. After the pictures of the bride and groom had been taken, the bride was led in by all the women present, doing African dancing! The two families all did speeches, including aunts, uncles, cousins, mothers, fathers, grandfathers, and grandmothers, so you can imagine they went on for some time. It became clear that the wedding was not just about the bride and groom, but about the joining of two families. After the cutting of the cake, there was some more African dancing, and then it was time to clear away and leave. I was surprised that all the guests weren't invited to an evening reception like at home. It seemed that the after party was only for close friends and family. The bride and groom received so many gifts. As you left your gift for them, you had to sign your name in a book, and leave your phone number. I'm not sure if they'll even know who I am, but I put my name down anyhow. The grooms parents own the dressmakers, and repair shop in town, and my colleague, is good friends with them (They were able to help Mira out when the straps on her (new!) rucksack from Nairobi disintegrated!) The after party seemed to be for close friends and family only.. It was nice to meet Kathy and Gabi and exchange experiences so far, and I really enjoyed the African dancing :)

Plate topped full of East African food...yum!
The brown stuff on my plate is ugali!

Myself, Fredy, and his childminder



Before the celebrations begin



A surprise trip to Iten and Kerio Valley!

Today was a great day! Shona and John (from GSK House) were over, with Stanley, Liz and Martin from GSK Nairobi. They work in consumer healthcare, and had come over to look round AMPATH, and then wanted to look around the high altitude training camps, with the aim of finding new promotional material for Luzcozade sport. I wasn't even aware that they were coming, it was just when Evelyn asked whether I wanted to be introduced. We looked around the laboratories together, and then I invited myself along on their trip to Iten (where the High Altitude Training camp is.) I just found myself talking non-stop in the car journey there (just 30mins from Eldoret). I explained I'm not normally like this, but I think I'm missing company, now Mira and Mike have left!

There was a 25m swimming pool, and an amazing gym. 

Peter (Lornah Kiplagat's coach) showed us around. Apparently, this is where athletes from across the globe come to train, and at around 6.15am, some 900 athletes travel to run round that track! There is a gym there, which is one of the best equipped gyms I've ever seen. We saw round the physio therapy rooms too. Then we met Lornah herself (just before she went off on a 35km run), she just missed the qualifying time to run in the Olympics (which is set at sub 2:27:24 hr), however, did receive an invitation from the organisers of the Amsterdam 2011 marathon to run and qualify in October. We all managed to get a picture with her. 





Me and Lornah

 After eating a runners lunch (light lunch of mushroom soup, a roll and fruit salad), the rain came on. We drove up to see the track itself, which didn't look that impressive at all, was just like a mud track, however, as Peter says, people travel miles to train on this track, so despite its appearance, it gives results. After leaving Iten, we drove up to Kerio Valley. We visited Kerio view resort and had amazing views over the rift Valley. After a juisi ya mananasi (pineapple juice), sadly it was time to go home. It was such a great day out, I was sad to to leave my new friends. Shona has roped me into organising a team from Eldoret to do “Run for Good”. She's aiming to raise over £500,000, building on a successful 2010 AMREF run, raising money for your own charity, or one of GSK's 8 charities. I'll see if I can advertise it at my next training session. 

The setting sun from my garden

View of Kerio Valley

Here I am attempting to use one of the machines